By Melissa Manning Whether you are a rodeo champion, a Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo committee volunteer or even a drug-store cowboy, chances are you own a Western belt and buckle. Despite the cowboy's reputation as a rugged individualist, one thing is understood in the West -- no self-respecting cowboy or cowgirl is considered dressed until he or she has laced a Western belt through the loops on his or her jeans. "There are three things a cowboy wears that he is most proud of -- his hat, his buckle and his boots," said Robert Brandes, a historian and Western buckle collector. Brandes began collecting buckles more than 10 years ago when he realized Western buckle making was an important American art form that needed to be preserved. According to Brandes, the Western buckle is predominantly a 20th-century phenomenon. Prior to 1900, he said, most common buckles resembled oversized shoe buckles or military styles. Western buckles today range from the simple silver buckle with few adornments to the belly-bustin', trophy variety that is replete with sterling silver, multicolored gold floral etchings, and diamonds or other precious stones. Hi ho, Silver, mi amigo! It is believed the vaquero, or Mexican cowboy, first introduced fine silver spurs, tack and buckles to the cowboys of the untamed American West, and perhaps to the Texas Rangers. Prior to 1935, Texas Rangers did not carry badges, nor did the members of this elite law enforcement unit have uniforms. However, they have always been distinguished by their impeccable dress. It may have been their desire to wear fine Mexican silver buckles with a wider belt that led to the development of the popular ranger belt and buckle. A ranger buckle set includes the buckle, one or two keeper loops and a matching tip. Trophy buckles In the early 1900s, a few rodeos began awarding belt buckles as trophies. In the 1920s, Hollywood helped spur interest in fancy sterling silver and gold buckle sets, and during the 1930s, an increasing number of rodeos began awarding ornate trophy buckles. While it is uncertain which year the Show first awarded trophy buckles to event champions, Harry Tompkins, a world-champion bull rider and early competitor at the Houston Fat Stock Show, remembers buckles being presented by the Show in 1949. Today, the Show awards a total of nine event champion buckles for all seven rodeo events (one buckle is awarded to each team roping champion, and one is presented to the All-Around Cowboy). Buckles for the rest of us In 1980, Show management commissioned Award Design Medals of Oklahoma to produce the Show's first official commemorative buckle. Bubba Murphy, a local Award Design Medals' representative, said a Show buckle gives committee volunteers and fans a chance to express their pride in being associated with such an exciting event. The Show's first life-member buckle was produced in 1981 and was an instant hit, Murphy said. In 1982, the Show sold a special buckle in honor of its 50th anniversary. "That was the most successful buckle we've ever had -- we sold 20,000 of those buckles," said Dan Gattis, general manager of the Show. Murphy agreed, "The 1982 buckle is very collectible. We also expect folks to be extremely excited about the 2000 Show buckle, so we'll see how they compare." Selecting a buckle When shopping for a buckle, self-taught Houston silversmith Max Lang said to consider how you will wear the belt and how often. Do you prefer a large, ornate Western-style buckle with more silver than a Nevada mine, or do you prefer a more subdued, contemporary-style buckle? If you have a limited budget or expect to wear a buckle set infrequently, you may be satisfied with a mass-produced buckle that has an electroplated finish. Used by larger manufacturers, the electroplating technique begins with a brass or nickel center that is engraved and then covered by a thin layer of silver and often, gold floral etchings. Die-struck buckles are made when a craftsman places a sheet of silver or other metal on an engraved steel die. This technique enables the craftsman to strike hundreds of buckles from a single, engraved mold. Wax-cast buckles are made from wax molds that have been carved with an image. Custom buckles To create a custom buckle, an artist begins with a sheet of sterling (92.5 percent pure) silver or other precious metal, which is then cut to form the buckle's initial shape. To add gold to the design, the artist solders pieces of hand-sawed gold onto the silver plate. The artist may add precious stones to the buckle, and will often engrave, by hand, other designs into the silver. Then, the buckle is polished several times before it is considered complete. When searching for a handmade buckle, Lang advised selecting a sterling buckle made of heavy gauge silver. A hand-engraved piece is also more desirable than a buckle engraved by machine. A craftsman tools each buckle by hand, and the engraving work showcases their talent. This unique artistry, said Brandes, is what makes a buckle a valuable work of art -- not the precious metal used to create it. Caring for your buckle In general, you can expect your silver buckle to tarnish over time. Some buckles are designed so the tarnish, called patina, actually enhances the design. The experts suggest using a silver-polish cloth to shine your buckle. If you wish to remove all patina, a dip-polish can be used on sterling buckles but will likely remove the thin finish from electroplated pieces. "Handmade, solid-sterling buckles are designed to last a lifetime," said Lang. "They are often passed down to family members as prized heirlooms. If you plan to wear a buc kle frequently, I recommend you consider a quality piece that is built to last."
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